Thursday, January 29, 2009

南京新吃食

Compared to Chengdu, Nanjing does not have a very sophisticated food culture. Except the salt water duck[盐水鸭],Nanjing barely has any local food that is well-known nationally. Thus in recent years Nanjing has welcomed foods from all over the country and the world with no prejudice.
It has been only a couple months since my last return to home, but to my great surprise many familiar names have entered to my hometown.

This is an authentic Xinjiang restaurant. Most workers here are from Xinjiang. Interestingly, the restaurant is set up in several Mongolian tents.
While my friend and I finish eating, the employees finally started their dinner. We've seen many times on TV that Xinjiang people are good at singing and dancing. Sure enough, here they started music and singing. As we were having fun watching, one of them came talk to us. They are mostly family and came all the way to Nanjing for business. Now they already have two chains in Nanjing and are doing very well.


This is the first donut place I've ever seen in Nanjing. It's in fact a local Nanjing company. It sells donuts with dozens of different flavors, such as chocolate, green tea, caramel, etc. It sells for around 5 yuan each. Besides, there are also tea, coffee, etc.






This is the first Indian food restaurant I've ever seen in Nanjing. It's opened by an Indian. In fact there are thousands of Indians in Nanjing, mostly students studying traditional medicine. I also found another Nepali an restaurant, opened by two local Nanjinger. They love traveling and have been to Indian and Nepal a couple times. Thus they decided to bring the Indian cuisine back home.






















Again, this is the first Italian hand-made icecream place I've ever seen in Nanjing. In its brochures, it distinguishes Gelato from icecream, and sorbet from Gelato.
Interestingly, it's not opened by an Italian investor but a Chinese company from Shanghai. Their mission is to enable Chinese people to taste the most authentic Italian icecream at home.






The first Papa John's Pizza in Nanjing. Before I've seen a couple of them in Shanghai. I haven't seen any of its chains in its home--the U.S. though...













This is the famous Sichuan snack. Now it's entered Nanjing's food market with a doubled price. Okay..















Similar to Chengdu's 文殊坊 and 宽窄巷子,熙南里is a newly-built commercial area that takes advantage of old-times Nanjing architecture. There are many Chinese food places.








On the left, 蜀牛香is a rather expensive restaurant that specializes in Sichuan food. On the right, it's in fact very much like Two brothers in Middlebury. On the little blackboard standing outside, it says: "Irish breakfast..."


夫子庙is another such a site. It's history is much longer. But this 民间艺术大观园is a new development. Inside there are many old-times entertainment.














糖画is one of such old-time snack. Basically it's just candy made of sugar. But it's hand-drawn with liquid caramel thus requires high skill. When I was little there used to be the 糖画师傅 carrying the 扁担 in little streets. Children always gather around them watching, which is really fun. It has disappeared for long but now back to the main stream. Now this candy dragon costs 20yuan, equivalent to 2 McDonald's' burgers, or a decent meal for one person in a little restaurant.

Sunday, January 25, 2009

河流研究会春节茶话会

府南河 is the main river running through Chengdu. It used to be extremely polluted. The Chengdu government was determined to clean up the river and thus established 成都河流研究会[CURA--Chengdu Urban Rivers Association] in 2004. For years the Chengdu government devoted incredible resources to the river and this "clean-up" project even earned a UN prize.

In the clean-up project, CURA found out that a significant amount of pollutant come from upriver agricultural chemical fertilizers usage. In order to solve the problem from its root, CURA brought organic farming to an upriver village--安龙村。
Years later, today's 安龙村 organic project gets the most funds from an NGO, PCD-Partnership for Community Development.

In this Spring festival season, many employers organize 茶话会, where everybody sits together, eat snacks, drink tea, and the most importantly, chat. This time, CURA brought together representatives of producers, consumers, and organizers of the 安龙村project.

Urban-rural split is a major social issue in China. Especially in recent years, it seems that the gap is growing bigger and bigger. But what happened in these couple hours gave me a completely different perspective.


The meeting starts with a short film documenting
the major steps of the 安龙村project. Many among the audience find themselves on the screen and burst into laughters.









CURA staff first put up posters on the wall with some words and' photo frames'. At the beginning everybody in the room get some pictures and have to find the appropriate place for each photo. Thus everybody gets involved in learning about the stories in 安龙村project's development.
When all photos get put in their frames, someone has to introduce their stories making sure everyone is on the same page. The posters tell the stories of individual organic growers, consumers "organic trip" to the village, Chengdu organic market and the newly developed vegetable delivery.

Here the two 农民伯伯阿姨. They talked about their organic farming experience, what they sell, what has changed in the past year, and what they hope for the next year. Many times the audience[ofter consumers] pose questions and they "negotiate."























This is a farmer from another province 贵州。 He came to exchange their organic growing experiences. He lives in a minority village[侗族]and the whole village specializes in rice. Years ago, a company tried to make them grow organically and purchase their rice. However, the village refused the offer but established their own organic association. Years later, their organic rice has built up reputation. This 叔叔introduces his village with great pride. He says now many young people come back from cities and enjoy their healthy life. Later we sit together at lunch and he has strongly identifies with organic practices and sincerely loves their lifestyle. Urban life is no longer desirable. He warmly welcomes me to go visit. Well, I will~~






Here he dialogues with some customers. Last year they came to Chengdu and sold 2 tons of rice. These two customers loved it and here just jumped up and talked to him about the pricing right at the spot.









During the break, the 安龙农民叔叔阿姨们 analyzed the rice seeds from 贵州 and exchanged experiences. The 贵州rice叔叔 promised to bring more seeds the next time.









Here is a representative of the consumers. She has been on the "organic trips" organized by CURA many times. First she expressed deep thanks for the organic farmers. The funny part is she spent quite a while thanking the 贵州rice growers, --"woo!!your rice smelled sooo good!!"
Later, some other consumers talked about their worries about food safety and sincerely hope more farmers in the village can join organic farming. The growers and consumers then discussed the problems that 安龙村 project currently has. Some farmers that have not decided to grow organically also spoke about their concerns. The major difference between 安龙村 and the 贵州大米村 is that 安龙村doesn't have a strong leader from within. Thus the organic project is often in danger of collapsing.


Throughout the day, farmers were at the center spot. They each brought one dish from their garden. When someone praised their food, they came up saying "that's what I grew!那是我种的!"
I feel ashamed to say that, I've never seen such proud farmers. These few photos can't really show the atmosphere that day. Many times in the meeting I couldn't resist crying. In history 农民has never been a fashionable profession. But they should, and they can take pride in their work!
In today's China, rural development and food safety are two well-known social concerns. CURA's work in 安龙村 has shown a possible solution.

Saturday, January 24, 2009

居民小巷





It's important to note that 农家乐,春熙路,文殊坊,宽窄巷子 are sort of the "tourist sites" of the city. Normally people wouldn't go there on a daily basis. Thus foods in these areas mean a lot more than pure"nutritional content to sustain human survival". Exotic foreign foods display fashion and satisfy people's curiosity for the outside. Highly expensive restaurants could be an indication of social status. However, the largest number of restaurants are the 苍蝇馆子[fly restaurant]. A key characteristic of 苍蝇馆子is 物美价廉[inexpensive good food]. To be a good 苍蝇馆子,it usually has to have some "banner dishes"[招牌菜] so that customers would come back.
These little food places spread all over the city, mainly in residential areas.[P.S. newly-built gentrified residential areas are different] They live on very low profit margin but provide the most significant service to the majority of the city residents on the regular basis. They often look shabby but often have the best food.
The photos above are from a typical lane in a residential area.There you can find little restaurants, fruit shops, vegetable shops, meat places, post office,photos developer,tofu places, fresh-made noodle shop, mini "supermarket", metal tools[五金] shop,even a walnut shop. Basically you can find everything you normally need here. For a lot of locals, this kind of streets are their daily life.





This “华兴街煎蛋面” has been selling its signature noodle with fried eggs' for decades. For all these years, it has never moved, changed its set-up[except the banner], or expanded the menu. Today, this is the most famous noodle place in Chengdu. Interestingly, it locates right behind 春熙路 and has not been developed[according to the boss, this street is already protected because of a couple very old restaurants]. For a couple days I kept going there eat noodles[which is very cheap]. The boss is rather talkative. He always stands at the door. I told him that I am from Nanjing and come to visit Chengdu. "I've heard of this noodle places many times and it is really good!!" I said in an admiring tone. His response was really funny," of course!! this is the only ONE authentic 华兴街煎蛋面!!all the others are fake!". He seemed very happy and proud of his work. When I asked why the noodle is so good, he laughed "of course we have our secrets". When I asked why they didn't open chains, he said,"it wouldn't taste as good if we get chains". then why not furnish the place a little bit? His response was a little surprise: our workers don't want to sacrifice their pay!" we have enough customers~~" Well, they do. they are always busy....
After all, they do have really cheap and REALLY delicious noodles~~~hahahaah
















This is also a decades-old noodle place. Their banner noodle is 怪味面-"weird flavor noodle". Different from the previous one, they do sell other flavored noodles. Here are four different flavors~~ Look, their tables and chairs look better~~This place has been furnished..
It's right across the street from a high school. There are a lot of students come for a quick lunch or dinner. With them the boss is especially nice. When the students finish the bowl, they can go have some extra noodles[with no seasoning] if they are still hungry.






This is 小谭豆花。It used to a little food stand that sells 豆花[very soft tofu]. Today they have adopted modern business techniques. It set up [only]a couple chains. It has a transparent kitchen. The hall was renovated in a traditional style. Look at the little ticket next to the bowl, this is a very old-fashioned method. Back to 1980s, when most restaurants were still national, customers had to pay first and get the food with the ticket. Here the ticket says" 馓子豆花“[soft tofu with the sticks looking stuff on top], from 1924.-woo~~





This is a lamb soup place. I put it here mainly because lamb soup is not a local Chengdu dish. The most famous 简阳羊肉汤is from a nearby city. In these little streets, "local dish" is not a common characteristic. As long as it tastes good and charges reasonably, it's a local 苍蝇馆子~
In fact, today in these streets we can find Yunnan rice noodle, authentic dumplings from the Northwest, not to say the specialties from other areas in the province.






Again, this is decades-old food place. It's specialty is 凉粉[a special transparent noodlish thing made of certain beans]. Like the soft tofu place, you also have to buy a ticket here. Another reason for it is this little food place is still National!! I have to be surprised. Before Deng changed the country's direction in 1980s, there were very few restaurants and almost all of them were national. Later more private restaurants with better service kicked out the national ones in the market. But this one still survives and prospers!! The cashier is an old lady--with a very interesting attitude. Different from the private ones that please the customers, here you don't get a smile, "what? --we are out of it!!". OK--all staff in this little place are elders. They keep talking to each while working, very chill. When I asked the old 叔叔 about the old-fashioned ticket, he took it seriously, "of course it's a good tradition!! we have to keep it! We can't change everything!'' I sense that in today's social atmosphere, "state-owned" companies could face a lot of pressure to "change".
But this place has not, they have not changed at all. They still have the good food, and the loyal customers.

Friday, January 23, 2009

香猪农场

When I first came to Sichuan as a volunteer, I learned about 罗宇-- this mysterious Taiji master and his organic farm. This time, I finally got the opportunity to visit his farm. A friend of mine sells organic products and knows 罗宇personally. Thus I called his cell by referring to this friend. He sounded very nice and welcomed me to come the next day. On the phone he was very considerate. He told me the specific location of the farm, how to get there by bus, asked me to call him if I get lost. At the end he said "we will wait here for you." At that point, I thought he was just being nice.

The next day, I left from the downtown. The farm is in a nearby village. To get there, I had to take three separate buses. Luckily it didn't take me too long. After one hour and a half, I arrived at the farm. Thankfully the nearby farmers all know this 香猪果园 and showed me the direction after I got off the last bus.

The entrance of the farm is very simple and straightforward. There is only a couplet: 香猪山上跑,四季果满园。[pigs run on the hill, fruits harvest all seasons]. I walked in and saw a poster: 果园香猪农家乐 Oh, it's a peasant home stay! this is their business model! I immediately connected this to 三圣乡。

In fact, this farm is way different from a normal 农家乐。

I kept walking and saw an old 阿姨[this is a simplified term for women older than my mom, I can't find the alternate in English]。I imagined a 农家乐will welcome any potential customer. But she asked " did you contact Manager Luo." Well, luckily I did.

She lead me to the main building of this farm. On the balcony, there were three people having tea. I quickly recognized 罗宇 as the 阿姨called 罗经理!His first words were "we've been waiting for you for long!!". He worn a red traditional-style jacket. Somehow I felt something different about this person. He speaks and walks in a very steady rhythm.

He was not being polite. They were litter ally waiting for me. 罗宇's farm is only open to members. This is not just a restaurant with a little farm.

We had a quick introduction. At the same time the other two people were talking about Chinese medicine, which drew my interest. We joined their discussion. Later I learned the 阿姨is a doctor in 西医[western medicine], the other 叔叔 is 罗宇‘s 太极师弟[younger brother of the same Taiji master]. He studied 中医[Chinese traditional medicine] on his own. In their discussion, they talked about the systematic corruption of 西药, basically the problems with pharmaceuticals.and the significance of traditional medicine. Didn't all this sound familiar?

As the staff prepared my lunch, 罗宇and his 师弟took me on a tour in the farm.


The farm is built on a hill. I later learned that 罗宇rented this land from local farmers 10 years ago. At that point, the farmers thought this land on the hill is difficult to cultivate and thus were happy to get rid of it. However, for 罗宇,this land higher up is great to develop an organic farm[less chemicals left-over].

[note: back to 10 years ago, farmers' land was not allowed for rent. But this specific village was the government "experimental site" and 罗宇 grasped the opportunity]

罗宇used to be a trader. 10 years ago he learned about organic farming and quit his job. At that time, it was a crazy idea. Luckily, his wife supported him.
Before starting his business, 罗宇and his partners took four years, went all over the country[only in China] consulted numerous people, including retired agricultural scientists, experienced farmers, other people in organic farming sector, the list goes on. Then they carefully designed this farm.



All staff are farmers from nearby. Here they are watering the vegetables with 农家肥[farmers' fertilizers] and pulling the weeds. Here they make methane out of pigs' excrement and use the left-over as fertilizers.




These couple 老爷爷 are very talkative. As I talked to them, they seemed very happy working here. They know this is a good way of farming. But why others don't follow? They gave me their answer: 1. organic farming is labor-intensive. Take that small piece of land for example, it takes one person half an hour to kill the weeds with herbicides. However, here it's been taking three 老爷爷two hours but they still haven't finished it. Today, few people would want to make that effort except very motivated.
2. here in the farm 罗宇does not allow any chemicals to kill the bug. The only system is the "honey bottle" which attracts bugs to fall themselves. Thus the yield is significantly less than normal plants, especially in the first few years.
3. if there is no certification[which costs a lot of money] or good marketing, who would trust you that it's organically grown?

In fact, after 罗宇started his farm, some farmers nearby did try to imitate, but they all failed after a while.




Here are 罗宇's pig. This specific breed is carefully chosen. One of their grandparents is a wild pig. Look, their nose stick out. Each "room" has a back door and staff would go open it regularly. As time goes by, pigs learn to kick it to get out, and of course to come back for food. The route is already designed so that pigs won't get lost or bump into vegetable gardens. Interestingly, pigs here are not afraid of people. They understand when 罗宇calls "丑猪 ugly pig" because they know that's a sign of food.
At the beginning, 罗宇raised lots of sheep because their excrement is very good fertilizers. But then pigs have much better commercial value in China. Thus pigs become the major "cash animal". Besides, they have some chickens and ducks, and a fishpond. In fact they would be bankrupt if they only do vegetables.






















Here is the dining hall. The set up is very simple. On one side, the poster tells 罗宇's story and the farm's ecosystem. On the other side, there are two smaller rooms: Taiji club[太极会所] and Organic club[有机会所]. On the wall, there is a poem-归园田居, which describes the rural life. For many years, the poet fought for his "ideal society" in politics . Finally quit and found his happiness in the countryside. This poem has great significance in history.
My lunch was a mini hotpot. The soup was made of pig bones. The vegetables were fresh pulled from the field. The pork sausage were from the farm, made in the farm. Rice was organic brown rice, again, from the rice.

Later, I toured the rest of the farm, talked with 叔叔阿姨 and finally got a free-ride back to the city.

Chengdu has a small organic market. Through this market and some friends, I've met several people involved in this "movement". Many of them[especially in NGOs] rely on foreign cases and theories.But 罗宇is very different. He is deeply rooted in Chinese traditional culture and the Chinese traditional culture is deeply rooted in 农耕文化[agriculture]. He's been practicing Taiji for almost 20 years[He is the National Taiji Champion] and Taiji itself is a practice of ancient wisdom. He reads Chinese traditional classics, such as 易经,道德经,资治通鉴,黄帝内经,etc。From his childhood罗宇understands the value of these "traditions". Thus he is clear about where to seek help. He says, China itself is already huge treasure.

罗宇's business has been loosing money for 7 years. But this year, they had a good profit. Everything is sold out. A good membership is established, and the demand is stable. Now he is working with others to establish an organic farming association。

正心、修身、齐家、治国、平天下 is what the Contortionists believe. Self-cultivation is at the first place. 罗宇understands this.






p.s.: This is what I found on the way to the farm in the village. 农业生活垃圾箱--I have never seen this before in the countryside I visited and this one looks pretty new. In my memory trash is just tossed in the field, but here, there is a huge trash can!




复古建筑[二]--宽窄巷子

宽窄巷子["broad-narrow lanes"] is another commercial zone featuring "tradition". Different from 文殊坊with completely 'fake' traditional old architecture, 宽窄巷子 was built on remains from old 成都residential area.[kind of like 胡同in Beijing] In recently years, real-estate developers have cleaned off most of these old places but here the small remains got renovated and, of course, gentrified.Today there are still some people living here, note: in houses. This area is no longer affordable for everyone. Different from 文殊坊,宽窄巷子has lots of western food places, Starbucks being one of them. Here Starbucks has dropped its standardized "T-shirt" but changed to its "Chengdu clothing".
I found this really funny. Chinese are extremely adventurous with food. Whatever it is, wherever it comes from, as long as it tastes good, we'll give a try. Starbucks is such an exotic place~~
"布朗尼brownie?危地马拉咖啡Quatemala coffee?let's try!"
But, after all,
Here is China.






This is a tea house











This is a small resturant, older than the new commercial zone, very original.










what is this??
-----it's a garage!!